This post is just a quick photo dump, but maybe some information first:

Abisko in Swedish Lappland is a very accessible place, as it is well beyond the Arctic Circle. There are regular and night trains that use the tracks of the famous Malmbanan (Ore Line) from Kiruna to Narvik.

Vy Arcitc Circle night trains run daily from Stockholm Central Station with a direct train to Narvik, Norway via Boden and Kiruna (train #94). There is also a night train to Lulea (train #92), which connects with a regional train to Narvik (train no. 96) at Boden C station.

There is a railway station in the centre of Abisko Östra, the main settlement.

If staying at STF Abisko Tourist Station, you can continue on to Abisko STF Station, from where it is only a 2 minute walk to the reception.

The moment you step from the overheated train into the dry arctic cold is stunning. The guy who got off me nailed as he pointed towards the opposite shore of the lake saying to his companion: “Looks, this is beyond the wall. We head there tomorrow.”

STF Abisko Turiststation is a fantastic place to stay with many different types of accommodation from bunk beds to private rooms. The public areas are cosy and well decorated. There is an excellent restaurant, bar, shop and equipment hire.

If you stay in the more basic bunk bed buildings, you also have access to well-equipped communal kitchens. However, self-catering is a bit of a challenge if you arrive by train, as there is only one small shop left in Abisko Östra (the Coop has closed), which focuses on sweets and fizzy drinks bought in bulk by passing Norwegians from across the border (the country increased its sugar tax by 83% in 2018). There is a basic grocery section, but it is not uncommon for staples such as bread or eggs to be out of stock for a few days. There are only a few trains a day between Abisko Östra and Abisko STF, but the shopping can easily be done on foot (about 20 minutes each way).

Although this is technically a youth hostel, don’t expect your stay to be cheap. This is a) Sweden and b) a remote location. Also remember that for the dormitories you need to bring or rent towels and sheets and you are expected to clean your room on your last day.

Becoming a member of STF will get you dicounts on some rates and purchases.

There is a wide range of activities available such as backcountry skiing, snowshoe-hiking and ice climbing.

Our favourite was the Northern Lights walk at night, which ended in a traditional Sami hut where everyone shared stories around the campfire.

All activities are led by experienced guides and are suitable for people of all ages and fitness levels.

You can also hike on your own along the well-marked trails in the national park, or simply walk on the frozen Torneträsk lake.

Wildlife viewings included:

One of Abisko’s main attractions is the Northern Lights. It is said to be one of the best places in Europe to see them, as it is far from the big cities and has a microclimate with low rainfall and often clear skies in winter.

We were lucky enough to see a very vibrant aurora dancing across the sky. It was the perfect illustration of a story a fellow traveller had told around the fire:

The northern gods had assigned each animal a constellation in the sky. When they had finished, they realised that they had forgotten the arctic fox. As there was no more room on the canopy, they allowed him to hunt in the northern skies as a consolation – and his tail can be seen as the aurora borealis as he dashes across the sky.